Growing Figs
How to Grow Fig Trees in Pots: A Beginner’s Guide
Why Grow Figs in Pots Anyway?
Not everyone has an orchard—and honestly, not everyone wants one. Maybe you’re renting, living in an apartment with a sunny balcony, or you’re just sick of dealing with Florida’s infamously sandy, nematode-riddled soil. Whatever your setup, growing fig trees in containers is more than just doable—it’s delightful.
It’s like keeping a sweet, sun-loving pet that rewards you with jammy, honey-sweet fruit. All it needs? A pot, a spot in the sun, and a little attention.
The Case for Containers: Small Space, Big Flavor
Container-grown figs are perfect for:
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Urban gardeners with patios, decks, or balconies
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Renters who want portable plants
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Gardeners with poor soil—or no soil at all
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Folks in nematode zones (👋 Florida, we see you)
And the bonus? When your fig tree is in a pot, you’re in control. Watering, sunlight, soil health—it’s your little ecosystem. And if something goes sideways, you can troubleshoot without a shovel or backhoe.
Choosing the Right Fig Variety for Pot Life
Some fig varieties are better behaved in containers. They stay compact, are naturally productive, and don’t mind having their roots a little crowded. Here are a few favorites for pot culture:
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Violette de Bordeaux – Small tree, rich flavor, and absolutely stunning fruit.
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Little Miss Figgy – Truly compact, ornamental, and great for patios.
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Petite Negra – Dwarf by nature, with full-sized fruit.
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Celeste – A classic Southern fig—sweet, reliable, and doesn’t need a lot of fuss.
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LSU Purple – Ideal for Florida growers, and resistant to root knot nematodes.
If you’re just starting out, go for something known to do well in containers. You’ll have fewer surprises—and more fruit.
Picking a Pot That Doesn’t Suck
Let’s not overcomplicate this: fig trees need room to grow, but not too much. They actually like being a bit root-bound—it can even encourage earlier fruiting. Aim for something in the 15–25 gallon range to start. Bigger over time, but no need to haul out a half-barrel on day one.
Key pot features:
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Drainage holes (non-negotiable)
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Lightweight material (if you plan on moving it)
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Stability (nobody wants their fig to tip in the wind)
Plastic nursery pots work fine, but if you’re feeling fancy, terra cotta or glazed ceramic pots can look great too—just know they dry out faster.
The Soil Situation: Light, Airy, and Well-Drained
Your fig tree doesn’t want heavy, soggy soil. That’s a recipe for root rot. What it craves is a mix that holds moisture without clumping into mud.
Try this simple blend:
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1 part peat moss or coco coir
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1 part perlite or coarse sand
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1 part quality compost or well-aged bark fines
Bagged “container mix” is usually a good start. Just skip the moisture-control stuff—figs hate wet feet.
Watering Without Going Overboard
Here’s where a lot of beginners slip up: figs in pots dry out fast. Especially in full sun, especially in summer.
So how often should you water?
Well… that depends. Stick your finger a couple inches into the soil. If it feels dry, water deeply—until it runs out the bottom. If it’s still damp? Give it another day. Fig trees are more forgiving of short droughts than soggy soil.
In the heat of summer, you might be watering every 1–2 days. In cooler months, maybe once a week.
Feeding Your Fig: What They’re Hungry For
Figs are moderate feeders. Not greedy, but definitely not fasting either. They appreciate steady nutrition through the growing season (spring through early fall).
Go for:
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A slow-release balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) every 2–3 months, or
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A liquid feed (like fish emulsion or seaweed) every 2–3 weeks
Pro tip? Don’t overdo nitrogen. It can lead to lush, floppy growth with few figs. We’re not growing jungle foliage here—we’re after fruit.
The Florida Factor: Nematodes Be Gone
If you’re gardening in Florida, you’ve probably heard of root knot nematodes—the microscopic pests that quietly destroy root systems from below. They’re a fig grower’s nightmare in sandy soil.
Here’s the good news: potted figs don’t have to deal with them. Growing in containers filled with clean, nematode-free soil completely sidesteps the issue.
Even better? Varieties like LSU Purple, LSU Gold, and Ischia Black were bred with the South in mind. They’re not invincible, but they’re resilient.
The Fig Shuffle – Winterizing in Colder Climates
If you live somewhere with cold winters (think USDA Zone 7 and below), you’ll need to do the annual fig shuffle.
Yep, it’s exactly what it sounds like—lugging your potted fig indoors before freezing temps hit. Some people store them in garages, basements, or even stairwells. Anywhere cool (around 30–50°F) and dark is fine. The tree will go dormant, dropping leaves and chilling out until spring.
Things to remember:
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Don’t water much—maybe once a month
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No light needed—it’s asleep
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Make sure rodents can’t nibble on the roots
Come spring? Wheel it back out and let it wake up with the sun. It’s like a seasonal houseguest that doesn’t complain.
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
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Overwatering – This is the #1 killer of potted figs. Error on the dry side.
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Too much nitrogen – Leads to big leaves, no figs. Keep it balanced.
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Too small of a pot – Roots need room. If you see roots circling, it’s time to size up.
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Poor drainage – Use well-draining soil and pots with holes. Always.
And remember: even if your tree looks a little sad after a tough summer, figs are resilient. Give them sun, time, and a little care, and they bounce back like champs.
Final Thoughts – A Tree Worth Rolling In and Out
Growing fig trees in pots isn’t some second-best option—it’s a smart, flexible, and deeply rewarding way to bring fresh fruit into your life, no matter your living situation.
Whether you’re coaxing a Petite Negra to fruit on a Brooklyn balcony or growing LSU Purple on a Florida lanai, there’s something genuinely joyful about watching your tree wake up, stretch out its branches, and—if you’re lucky—hand you a ripe fig you grew yourself.
You know what? That’s worth shuffling around a pot or two.
